Surf journo makes board, does pool test, hits the big, red “question-everything” button
“Good surfing” is hard to define. But let’s try anyway. It’s when a surfer correctly predicts what a wave will do and contorts their body in a way that creates the intended interaction between that wave and their surfboard. It looks different for every individual, but that about sums it up, no? Surfers have ideas about … Continue reading Surf journo makes board, does pool test, hits the big, red “question-everything” button
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