Surf journo makes board, does pool test, hits the big, red “question-everything” button

“Good surfing” is hard to define. But let’s try anyway.  It’s when a surfer correctly predicts what a wave will do and contorts their body in a way that creates the intended interaction between that wave and their surfboard.  It looks different for every individual, but that about sums it up, no?  Surfers have ideas about … Continue reading Surf journo makes board, does pool test, hits the big, red “question-everything” button