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Surf journo makes board, does pool test, hits the big, red “question-everything” button
“Good surfing” is hard to define. But let’s try anyway. It’s when a surfer correctly predicts what a wave will do and contorts their body in a way that creates the intended interaction between that wave and their surfboard. It looks different for every individual, but that about sums it up, no? Surfers have ideas about how they want to ride
“Good surfing” is hard to define. But let’s try anyway. It’s when a surfer correctly predicts what a wave will do ...Continue ›